Dethatching is one of the most overlooked tasks in lawn care and lawn maintenance. The thatch layer is made up of brown decaying plant matter just above the soil which builds up and prevents nutrients and moisture from reaching turf roots.
This layer is also a friendly environment for fungus to grow. Even though thatch is regarded as a detriment to a healthy lawn it also has positive qualities in that thatch can prevent weeds from germinating, hold in moisture and protect grass from frost damage. There is a general rule that more than ½ inch of thatch is not beneficial so keeping an eye on thatch thickness is very important.
Dethatching – A Timely Task
The best time to de-thatch a lawn is in late spring and early fall when grass growth is most active as it can bounce back from stress more quickly. As mentioned above a thin layer of thatch can protect against frost damage so if you see frost, it is better to refrain from de-thatching your lawn.
If you forget to de-thatch your lawn in late spring do not do so during
You also want to avoid de-thatching when weeds are germinating, this can cause an explosion of weeds you didn’t even know existed. De-thatching is a timely task and is at the root of most issues for lawn care and maintenance.
To determine the depth of thatch you can cut a small square of sod out of your lawn and measure the depth of the thatch, but most people just pull aside their grass and estimate the thatch thickness. Some lawn care experts can determine how much thatch is underfoot by the feel of the bounce of their step on a lawn.
The best way to de-thatch a small lawn is with a thatching rake which has thick blades designed to pull thatch out of turf without pulling up the grass itself. For larger lawns rent or buy a vertical mower (a.k.a. dethatcher) which has rotating blades that scrape, cut and remove thatch from turf.
DO NOT de-thatch a lawn and leave it bare, follow up with lawn aeration, fertilizing and watering to support the lawn during its growth cycle.
I see thatch as the yin and yang of lawn care and lawn maintenance. If you have too little thatch at the wrong time of year, weeds will germinate and lawns can either burn or freeze depending on the conditions. It is smart to write down de-thatching times and take this task very seriously if you do so you are going to be rewarded with the balance in the form of a greatly improved turf.
A lawn dethatching is a corrective measure taken to bring an unhealthy lawn with an excessive thatch layer back into balance.
Thatch is the layer of grass clippings and built up plant material in a lawn found between the green grass tops and the roots. In a healthy lawn, this naturally developing layer should be 1/2 inch thick.
With the help of certain bacteria, the thatch slowly breaks down over time so the height stays constant. A proper amount of thatch on a lawn helps to protect the grassroots from burning and allows the lawn to retain water.
Thatch is not caused by leaving grass clippings on your lawn, as some of you have been led to believe.
With frequent mowing, you should leave the clippings on the surface to be recycled back into the lawn. They can provide essential nutrients that are very good for the turf.
Frequent mowing is key, to ensure the clippings are small so they will decompose quickly, helping eliminate the need for lawn dethatching.
Excessive amounts of thatch can prevent moisture, oxygen, and needed nutrients from penetrating the soil. It can also become a breeding ground that harbors lawn diseases and insects.
In an unhealthy lawn with too much thatch, the soil may be compacted, making it harder for bacteria to reach the surface to break it down.
Lawn dethatching then becomes necessary.
One quick fix might be to aerate the lawn which pokes deep holes into the soil. This allows that bacteria to be drawn up to the surface so it can do it’s job.
Lawn aeration isn’t always the answer for thatch build up though. If the thatch layer is just slightly more than 1/2 inch, lawn aeration could correct the problem.
Walk your lawn and look for the following signs that indicate excessive thatch and the need for lawn dethatching.the grass is green on top but brown underneath it looks dead and scalped when you mow.
The lawn is thinning and off-color OR is thick, rich and green but you can’t see bare ground between the plants, but only matted, fibrous material if the grass feels “spongy” to walk on
You’ll have to look at a cross section of the turf to see how much thatch there is on your lawn.
The best way to do this is with a knife, a trowel or a shovel. Take a sample of the lawn by removing a plug of turf, just like cutting a piece of pie. Make sure your sample is large enough so you can see a complete cross section that includes the grass, the thatch, the roots and the soil.
Measure the layer of thatch between the top growth and the root zone to see if it’s more than 1/2 inch deep. Anything over the 1/2 inch depth needs to be corrected. It’s time for a lawn dethatching.
Cool season lawn grasses are best dethatched in the early fall or early spring when new grass shoots won’t get damaged.
Don’t dethatch your lawn between times of dormancy and active growth when nutrient stores and energy in the roots are low.
It’s important to prepare the lawn before dethatching by mowing it at the lowest height on your mower. Then, water lightly so the soil is moist, but not saturated. If it’s too wet the turf will be torn by the equipment.
A lawn dethatcher is essentially, a large mechanical rake designed to remove thatch. It’s much faster, more efficient, and far more effective than trying to do it by hand.
Hand raking a larger lawn is very physically demanding and time consuming. Most hand rakes just aren’t designed to dislodge those thick matted layers of thatch.
By running the dethatcher steadily and slowly across the lawn, the rotating blades penetrate the grass and pull up the thatch underneath.
The height of the blades as well as their spacing can both be adjusted. A good depth is 1/4 inch above a hard surface.
You don’t want to pulverize the soil surface. Run the dethatcher steadily over the lawn, making successive passes just like mowing the lawn.
Follow these with similar perpendicular passes until the thatch is removed.
Use your garden rake to remove the thatch by raking into piles to be bagged and removed. Don’t be surprised by a large amount of debris you’ll collect.
Considering you have a pesticide-free lawn, the thatch you’ve collected can be used for mulch or put in the composter.
At this point your lawn will look pretty rough with many bare patches and rather straggly grass. This is a ‘tough love’ remedy so you’ll just have to put up with its poor appearance for about four weeks while it recovers.
At this point it’s a good practice to apply a good quality, slow-release organic fertilizer to help stimulate regrowth.
Thoroughly watering the lawn is important to keep it from drying out while the protective layer is being re-established.
Immediately following a lawn dethatching is a great time to add some grass seed to help in the recovery process.